Requirements/ Prerequisites of fabric cutting
To cut the pieces of garments from fabric lay accurately, following requirements should be fulfilled. Requirements are as following:
1. Precision of cut
2. Clean edge
3. Unfused edge
4. Support of the lay
5. Consistent cutting
1. Precision of cut: Garments cannot be assembled satisfactorily, and they may not fit the body correctly if they have not been cut accurately to the pattern shape. Precision of cut means cutting parts’ shape and size must be as per original sketch. It depends upon some factors-
• The method of cutting employed.
• The marker planning and marker making.
• In manual cutting using a knife, accuracy of cut, given good line definition, depends on appropriate, well maintained cutting knives and on the skill and motivation of the cutter.
• In both die cutting & computer-controlled cutting, the achievement of accuracy comes from the equipment.
• Skill of the operator.
3. Unfused edge: In the mechanical method, when the parts of fabric are cut from the fabric lay, there is a friction generated between the fabric and the cutting knife passing through the fabric. This, in extreme cases leads to scorching of the fabric and, more frequently, to the fusing of the raw edges of the thermoplastic fibers’ fabrics, such as those containing poly-amide or polyesters. The cutter cannot separate individual plies from the bundle of cut parts. Forced separation causes snagged edges, and, in any case, the hard edge is uncomfortable to wear.
• Use anti-fusion papers during spreading.
• Spraying the blade with air coolant/ silicon lubricant.
• By reducing the height of the lay.
• Slowing down the speed of the blade.
• By using well sharpened blade.
• By using blade with a wavy edge.
5. Support of the lay: The cutting system must provide the means not only to support the fabric but also to allow the blade to penetrate the lowest ply of a spread.
4. Consistent cutting: The method of fabric cutting is not the main factor; the main fact is to cut the fabric in consistent way. Specially, the shape of cutting parts must be same from top to bottom of fabric plies. It may be inconsistent in cutting due to mechanical method. Poor skill & less concentration in work may cause inconsistency in cutting.
The inconsistency in cutting may arise due to-
• Knife deflection
• Wrong knife setting
• Toppling or leaning
• Poor skill of the operator
The following steps can be used to minimize the problem-
• Lay height can be reduced to avoid blade deflection.
• Knife setting must be at right angle to the base.
• Need skilled operator.